From The Pioneer Brewery to Presidio Pale Ale: Tucson’s History of Beer By Felix Brigham
In May, Barrio Brewing Company released a new limited-edition beer in collaboration with the Presidio Museum. The Presidio Pale Ale celebrates the 250th anniversary of Tucson and is brewed with Amarillo hops. With this beer, the Presidio Museum has contributed to a tradition of beer brewing in Tucson that reaches back as far as 150 years.
In 1866, soldiers traveling through Tucson were surprised to find beer for purchase. At the time, Tucson was a remote frontier settlement not yet connected by the railroad. Nearly all goods had to be imported by the Colorado River. Beer was perishable and didn’t travel well, making it difficult to come by. Bottling beer was also expensive and did not become popular until the emergence of pasteurization several years later in 1873. The short shelf life and pre-railroad shipping expenses made beer inaccessible to most.
Brewing beer in Territorial Arizona was no easy task, but several factors made beer a particularly desirable drink to the desert dwellers of Tucson. Perhaps most significant was the quality and quantity of water available. As anyone who has spent a summer in Tucson knows, staying hydrated is extremely important. At times, 19th-century Arizonans had limited access to fresh water. Much of the region’s water was saline or brackish, which could cause stomach issues that would lead to further dehydration. Beer tasted better and was safer than some of the water in Tucson, still providing some necessary hydration.
Furthermore, in the 19th century, beer was considered a beverage of moderation with potentially beneficial health properties. Even some early temperance movement members promoted beer as an alternative to hard liquor. Nevertheless, most Arizonans probably did not need a special reason to drink beer as it was (and still is) a light and refreshing drink enjoyed by many.
In 1866, Tucson was home to a single brewery, Pioneer Brewery, founded by Alexander Levin. Levin was born in Germany and moved to Tucson in early 1866. He wasted no time in establishing his brewery. Originally, Pioneer Brewery was a joint venture between Levin and entrepreneur Frank Hodges. After changing locations several times early on, Levin bought out Hodges and expanded operations with the financial backing of Joseph Goldtree.
Levin established his new brewery on a seven-acre parcel of land, which he named Levin’s Park. It became Tucson’s first amusement park and by 1870, held a variety of attractions including a theater, music pavilion, billiard alcoves, bowling alley, bar and restaurant, baths, a shooting gallery, and even an opera hall. It was the perfect place for Levin to sell his beer.
So, how did the beer brewed in Tucson taste? By all contemporary accounts, Levin produced a high-quality drink, even though it had to be consumed warm, as ice was not available until a steam-powered plant began to produce it in 1879. Saloon owner and diarist George Hand wrote on April 13, 1875:
“Levin brought some of his new beer in this morning–very fine beer. I drank several bottles of it, but kept sober all day.”
Levin’s brewery and beer remained popular until the railroad and Industrial Revolution ushered in competition whose product he couldn’t match.